Coffee Grading can be somewhat confusing. Many roasters would label an offering simply “Costa Rica” knowing that it is more exactly “Costa Rican SHB Tarrazu Fruta de Oro 2003-2004 crop.” For the most part, the consumer as a general rule, isn’t fond of change and most coffee drinkers have a hard time thinking of coffee the way they may think of fine wine. Grading designations differ greatly from country to country. Coffees are graded by size and density, sometimes by the altitude at which they are grown. In most Central American countries, the better coffees are graded by the altitude at which they are grown. In Guatemala and Costa Rica, the top grade is “strictly hard bean” (SHB) which denotes a dense coffee that owes its body and flavor to having been grown at or above the minimum SHB altitude of 4,500 feet above sea level. Likewise, altura - which means “high” in Spanish, is a designation given to Mexican coffees that come from higher elevations and therefore possess the potential for greater flavor. In Columbia, the largest possible bean size is the “supremo”, which many wrongly thing means “supreme.” Supremos command a slight premium over the smaller excelso grade, but do not necessarily offer better flavor. Large, evenly sized beans look impressive and roast more evenly, but size alone is not an indicator of a beans quality. Coffees often will have what are known as defects. Defects include flaws such as sticks, stones, and insects, as well as more subtle ones like the presence of under ripe or overripe beans. The best coffees have virtually no defects, which allows the bright fruit flavors inherent in coffee to shine through. Suggested Coffee Tastings:
Latin America and the Pacific: Brazil, Kona, Colombia, Costa Rica Tarrazu: The bland, nutty flavor of a good Brazil connects with most people’s earliest memories of coffee drinking, since Brazils are the dominant component of most mass-market blends. This is the taste of low-altitude, dry processed coffee. A good Kona will be simple and straightforward, with the slight acidity and flavors characteristic of low-grown washed arabicas. The Colombian will be fuller-bodies, with somewhat greater acidity. The Costa Rican, finally, will offer pointed acidity and clear, multidimensional flavors. East Africa and Arabia: Ethiopian Yergacheffe or Sidamo, Kenya Estate, Yemen Mocha Sanani or Mattari: Step back in time; this combinations presents two washed coffees and one natural (dry processed) that together may well comprise the original taste of coffee. Preeminent washed coffees are juxtaposed against the natural, uncovering fruit versus earthy funk. The Yergacheffe, especially a relatively light roast, will exert a powerful, almost perfumed aroma, light body, and exotic acidity. Kenya, by comparison, expresses itself as a brooding heavyweight. These beans combine heavy body and powerful, dark fruit acidity in much the same way a fine red wine dies. The Yemen is the ultimate in complexity. It offers wildness and idiosyncrasy, notes of blueberry, cocoa, wood, and spice, and a lingering aftertaste. Indonesia: Papua New Guinea, Estate Java, Sumatra, Sulawesi: The New Guinea comes across more like a Latin American coffee, but on a grand scale. It offers abundant, fruity acidity and medium to heavy body. The Java is an experience of pure body, with flavors that may remind you of freshly roasted nuts and an almost olive oil-style viscosity. Because of their washed flavor characteristics, these coffees are exceptions to the regional rule. A good Sumatra, on the other hand, will coat the palate with incredible heavy body and the dense flavors of herb and earth. It bypasses the tip of the tongue, where acidity and sweetness are perceived, almost altogether. Sulawesi adds forest-floor-type flavors, such as mushrooms and moss, in concert with a butter caramel sweetness that contrasts broadly with the dry style of the Sumatra. |
